The Ultimate Guide to Daegu’s Modern History Street
The Daegu Modern History Street, located in Jung-gu, Daegu, is a series of walking paths leading through the city’s oldest historical sites. By exploring the sites, visitors can learn of Daegu’s expansive history related to the Korean War and immigration, nationalism and Japanese Occupation, and the growth of Christianity in Korea. Daegu suffered less destruction during the Korean War compared to most other cities on the peninsula. As a result, many of the old buildings in Daegu built before the 1950’s have remained intact.
There are officially 12 stops along the road, though some are more worthwhile than others. Below is the list of places mapped out on the city of Daegu’s official website. I’ve bolded the places I personally recommend visiting and italicized spots that I’ve personally added that weren’t on the official map.
Cheongna Hill (Missionary Houses) – Jeil Church (new) – March First Independence Movement Road – Gyesan Cathedral – Houses of Yi Sang-hwa and Seo Sang-don (+ Gyesanyega) – Mulberry Street - The House with a Sunken Courtyard – YMCA - Jeil Church (old) – Daegu Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Museum – Yeongnam-daero – Jong-ro – Jin Alley – Chinese Residents Association (Chinese Elementary School)
Walking the entire Daegu Modern History course from beginning to end takes about two hours. This is entirely doable, but keep in mind any extra time needed to take photos, read signs, visit the museums, etc. I spent about three hours from beginning to end.
The Daegu city website recommends beginning at the Missionary Houses on Cheonga Hill and ending at the Chinese Residents Association. However, I recommend touring in the opposite direction. Near the Missionary Houses is Seomun Market, a famous traditional street market. The market is open from *9:00am-7:00pm, then hosts a night market from **7:00pm-10:30/11:30pm, making it a great spot to grab dinner at the end of the day. I also think going backwards provides better context for some of the later sites. Therefore, I’ll be listing the stops beginning with the Chinese Residents Association and ending at the Missionary Houses.
Below I’ll provide information about each of the places and give my personal opinions about what stops are worth visiting.
*Regular market is closed the first and third Sunday of every month
**Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday (7:00pm~10:30pm), Friday - Saturday (7:00pm~11:30pm). The night market is closed on Tuesdays.
Chinese Residents Association (Chinese Elementary School)
Beginning in 1905, Chinese immigrants began to settle into Daegu following the spread of Christianity and the completion of the Gyeongbu Railway. Receiving preferential treatment from the US Military Government, and as their population grew following mass immigration after the Korean War, Chinese residences in the city experienced a long period of economic power and authority. They engaged in popular businesses such as construction, restaurants, and linen which further helped to solidify their place in Daegu society. The Chinese Residents’ Association building was constructed during this time in 1929, now withstanding a history of over 80 years. While the building was first used as a home, it now functions as the office for the Chinese Residents Association in Daegu. This is the only place I didn’t see for myself as it was closed off for construction, so I can’t say if it’s worth visiting or not.
Address: 대구광역시 중구 남일동 142
Jin Alley
Jin Alley is a series of narrow alleyways that has existed since the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). In local dialect, “Jin” means long. Therefore, “Jin Alley” translates to mean “long alley.” Originally, it was home to the Dalseong Seo clam, the native family of Daegu, but eventually became a street locals walked along to avoid bumping into nobles. Jin Alley later became the starting place of the Women’s National Debt Compensation Movement (1907-1908). After Japan tried to subjugate the Korean economy by providing loans to the empire which could not be repaid, efforts across the peninsula were made to pay back the nation’s debt, called the National Debt Compensation Movement. The movement was initially geared towards men. However, the woman of Jin Alley wanted to participate. They began selling their valuables, assisted in fundraising, and wrote a manifesto which became widespread across the nation. Today, Jin Alley is covered in murals depicting these historical events.
Address: 대구 중구 진골목길 31
Jong-ro
“Jong-ro” translated means “bell street,” and references the traditional bell system used by the local government to announce the opening and closing of Daegu Castle’s doors. Later, during the colonial period, the street became a business epicenter filled with shops, banks, and high-class restaurants opening. The influx of Chinese refugees after the Korean War led to many Chinese restaurants and stores appearing along Jong-ro. Today, visitors can still see a few of the old local buildings including restaurants, schools, and the Chinese Residents’ Association building.
Address: 대구광역시 중구 종로2가 100-1
Yeongnam-daero
Yeongnam-daero was one of Korea’s primary roads in the Joseon Dynasty. It stretched across the entire peninsula, beginning at what is now Seoul and ending in Busan. Besides merchants and officials, the road was also popularly used by scholars to travel from Gyeongsang Province to Seoul in order to take their state examinations. Much of Yeongnam-daero has since been destroyed. However, a few patches of road, including this section in Daegu, still exist.
Address: 대구광역시 중구 계산동2가 271-1
Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Museum
The Yangyeongsi Oriental Medicine Museum is one of Daegu’s most well-known tourist attractions. Yangyeongsi Medicine Market, founded in 1658, is one of Korea’s oldest and largest traditional medicine markets with a history of over 350 years. The Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum was later founded in 1985 to preserve and further cultivate the tradition of oriental medicine in Daegu.
There are two zones in the museum: the first area provides information about the history of the market while the second is a hands-on zone where visitors can learn more about oriental medicinal practices, including how to use oriental medicine to heal your own body!
The museum offers some translations, but they are somewhat hit-or-miss. The hands-on zone has enough translations in English, Chinese, and Japanese for it to be enjoyable for everyone. However, the history area has far fewer translations, so you’ll miss a good chunk of the information if you can’t read Korean. Still, the museum is interesting and it’s free! So, if you have the time, or want to escape the heat for a few minutes, I suggest doing a quick walk through before heading to the next stop.
Address: 대구 중구 달구벌대로415길 49
Jeil Church (old)
Jeil Church is the first of a series of churches on this tour and is perhaps the most important. Its story begins with William M. Baird, an American missionary. He visited Daegu in 1893 and three years later, established the first Presbyterian Church of Daegu inside a small, hanok-style house. One year later, Baird left Daegu for Seoul and appointed his brother-in-law Minister James Adams to take in his place. Under Adamas, the church was rebuilt twice more to accommodate the growing membership, with this version of Jeil Church being finished in 1936. Today, the building functions as a museum space where visitors can look at historical artifacts from the church, including books and old photographs.
Address: 대구광역시 중구 남성로 23
YMCA
Across from the old Jeil Church is the Kyonam YMCA, the second YMCA founded in Korea. During the Japanese Occupational period, Christians played a major role in fighting for Korean independence, with many taking up leadership roles and holding covert meetings at churches and other religious institutions. Christians’ passionate support of Korean independence not only contributed to the continual spread of Christianity among Koreans, but also to the Japanese heavily persecuting Christians whom they saw as defiant. This history of Christianity in Korea can be further explored here at the YMCA.
The two primary leaders of the YMCA, Man-jip Lee and Tae-ryun Kim, were both prominent leading figures of the March First Independence Movement. Lee was responsible for receiving the Declaration of Independence from Seoul while Kim made copies of it and read it aloud on March 8th, officially stating the protest in Daegu. Kim was also the first victim in the movement, tortured and killed at the hands of the Japanese police. The Kyonam YMCA was furthermore one of the meeting locations for the Independence Movement leaders to organize their campaign.
Address: 대구 중구 남성로 22
The House with a Sunken Courtyard
This is an exhibition space paying tribute to author Kim Won-il’s most famous work, “The House with a Sunken Courtyard,” an autobiographical novel detailing the author’s experiences growing up in Daegu near Jong-ro and Jin Alley right after the Korean War. The book follows the lives of six families all living together in one house and the multiple hardships they face. The book, originally published in 1988, has since been translated into multiple languages and turned into a successful TV drama which aired in 1990. While not the actual home described in the novel, the “House with a Sunken Courtyard” exhibition gives visitors a glimpse into what the lives of the six struggling refugee families would have been like.
Address: 대구 중구 약령길 33-10
Mulberry Street
Mulberry Street is dedicated to the historical figure Sa-chung Du, a famous Feng-shui master and military official. Originally from Ming China, Du traveled to Korea to aid the country against Japanese invasion during the Imjin War. After the war, Du decided to become a nationalized citizen and stayed in Korea. He settled into Daegu, believing it was an auspicious location, and he raised his two sons. Du later planted numerous mulberry trees around him home, lending to the name of the street today. One popular story goes that while working in the mulberry fields, Du spotted a widow whom he immediately fell in love with and got married to. The mural along Mulberry Street depicts this love story. I recommend this if you also go to the houses of Yi Sang-hwa and Seo Sang-don, as it is located right outside them.
Address: 대구광역시 중구 계산동2가 92
Houses of Yi Sang-hwa and Seo Sang-don (+ Gyesanyega)
Yi Sang-hwa and Seo Sang-don were both famous independence activists who resided in Daegu. Yi Sang-hwa is considered one of the most prominent figures of Korean modern poetry. His poems touched on the grief, fears, and losses experienced during Japanese Occupation, with his most notable work being, “Will Spring come even to the forfeited field?” He also participated in protests and helped lead the March First Independence Movement in Daegu. Sadly, Yi passed away in 1943, a mere two years before Korea was liberated from Japan. The restored Yi Sang-hwa house is where the poet spent the later part of his life.
Seo Sang-don is recognized as the man that started the National Debt Repayment Movement. Seo began his life in Daegu as a peddler at the age of 18, but by 35 grew to become the wealthiest man in Daegu, working as an inspector and directing the province’s tax administration. Following Korea’s debt crisis, Seo made the first step by suggested everyone quit tobacco and use the savings to pay off the debt. This first step propelled the movement across the rest of the country. The Seo Sang-don house is where Seo lived as he worked on the National Debt Repayment Movement.
While exploring the homes, visitors can stop by Gyesangyega, a nearby cultural center providing visitors with a place to relax and get more information about the historical area.
Address: 대구 중구 계산동2가
Gyesan Cathedral
Gyesan Cathedral is known for being the first Western-style building in Daegu and the only remaining structure in Daegu from the early 1900s. The Catholic Church was first built in 1899 with a Korean-style design under the guidance of missionary Father Robert. After it was destroyed in a fire, Father Robert rebuilt the church with a new Romanesque design, importing stained glass and galvanized iron from France and Hong Kong. These elements, along with the church’s distinct Latin cross-shaped design, make it an easily recognizable icon of Daegu. The late dictator and former president of South Korea Park Chung-Hee and his wife were also married inside Gyesan Cathedral in 1950.
Across from the cathedral is Cheongna Hill, one of Daegu’s most famous landmarks. Along Cheongna Hill stands three monuments symbolizing key moments from various points of Daegu’s history: the March First Independence Movement Stairs, the new Jeil Church, and the Missionary Houses.
Address: 대구 중구 서성로 10
March First Independence Movement Road
While the March First Movement began it Seoul, it took a few days to reach Daegu. Once word arrived, the movement swiftly caught on and on March 8th, around 1,000 individuals-primarily high school students- banded together and rallied down these steps in protest. The stairs used to be surrounded by a thick grove of pine trees, making it the perfect place to hid from the Japanese polices’ surveillance while preparing. The forest is no longer there, but visitors can still climb the 90-steps just as the protestors once did.
Address: 대구 중구 동산동 881-3
Jeil Church (new)
Jeil Church was rebuilt once more in 1994 atop Cheongna Hill and continues to function as an active church. While not technically listed as a stop on the course map, the new Jeil Church stands as an impressive reminder of how much western religion grew in Daegu over the years- from the small hanok house established by Baird in 1896 to the multi-story building towering above the city today.
Address: 대구 중구 국채보상로102길 50 대구제일교회교육관
Cheongna Hill (Missionary Houses)
Beside Jeil Church are three houses, all made from red brick and featuring chimneys, screen front porches, and stained-glass windows. They are also surrounded by a thick grove of trees which close the homes off from the bustling city below. These are the Missionary Houses, all built from 1906-1910 for the Christian missionaries who moved to Daegu: Switzer, Blair, and Chamness. Today, the missionary houses function as museums. Do note that when I visited (6/2022), all the homes’ insides were emptied for what I assume is reconstruction or repairs.
My personal favorite of the three houses is the Switzer House. Martha Switzer came to Daegu in 1911 and dedicated her time and money not only to missionary activities, but also to supporting Korean women’s education. Wanting to be close to the people of Daegu, Switzer had her home built using stones from the fallen Daegu City Wall. She also purposefully designed the roof of her home in a Korean style, as to make it a symbol of the Eastern and Western communion. Switzer is now buried in the cemetery located near the homes along with the other missionaries.
Address: 대구 중구 달구벌대로 2029 동산기독병원사택지
And that brings us to the end of the Daegu Modern History Street tour! As you can see, there is an incredible amount of history packed inside this short stretch of land. I would strongly urge everyone visiting Daegu to walk through the course at least once. As mentioned above, once you’ve completed the tour, head over to Seomun Night Market for some street food! Alternatively, you can visit Romance Papa, a nearby hanok-style café that serves awesome coffee and desserts.
I’ve tried to condense the information as much as possible, but if you are interested in learning more, I highly suggest reading the book “Daegu Alleyway History Tour: A Walking Tour Storytelling Guide,” translated by Nam Jeongsub, as it gives wonderful in-depth anecdotes and facts about each location. Finally, let me know which locations interest you the most! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments. Happy travels! 😊