Hiking & Haenyeo Women Divers at Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, Jeju-do
Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, also known as Sunrise Peak, is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Jeju-do and furthermore has been called one of the top scenic spots in all of Korea. Located on the eastern edge of Jeju Island, Seongsan Ilchulbong first formed as a tuff cone more than 5,000 years ago through volcanic eruptions. While it was originally separate from Jeju-do, years of sand and soil build-up led to the two masses merging together. The mixture of hot lava and ocean water resulted in the formation of the large crater characteristic of the mountain today. Now, Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak attracts millions of guests to Jeju-do each year and is an icon of the island.
Known for having the best sunrise view in Jeju (hence its nickname, Sunrise Peak) people often gather on the summit during New Year’s to watch the first sunrise of the coming year, believing it will grant them good luck. The view isn’t the only popular attraction at Seongsan Ilchulbong, though. Many tourists also come to witness first-hand the Haenyeo Women Divers, one of Jeju’s most well known cultural traditions. Together, these two experiences make Seongsan Ilchulbong a must-see destination for visitors in Jeju Island.
This article will cover all you need to know about Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, from getting there and back, to hiking the trail and seeing the Haenyeo, and more. So, without further ado, let’s get started!
Getting There
Seaongsan Ilchulbong Peak is located on the eastern edge of Jeju-do in Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si.
By car, it takes about 1 hour from Jeju City to reach Seongsan Ilchulbong. There is free parking located at the front entrance to the trail.
Alternatively, you can take the bus. From Jeju City Bus Terminal you can take Bus 111, 112, 211, or 212 which each take about 1.5 hours. From there, get off at Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance (성산일출봉입구). From the bus stop, it takes about 5~6 minutes to reach the entrance gate.
Bus 211 and 212 times from Jeju Bus Terminal (제주터미널) to Seongsan Ilchulbong
Entrance and Fees
At the front entrance to Seongsan Ilchulbong is the ticket booth. Entrance is 5,000 won for adults ($3.86 USD) and 2,500 won for children ($1.93 USD). The park’s regular operating hours are 7:00am-8:00pm March to September and 7:30am-7:00pm October to February. If you want to watch the sunrise, you can also enter the park one hour before sunrise. If you do this, then entrance is free.
The park is closed on the first Monday of each month.
Haenyeo: Jeju Women Divers Show
Before making the hike to the top of Seongsan Ilchulbong, I suggest first checking out the Haenyeo performance.
Jeju’s Women Divers, known as Haenyeo, are perhaps Jeju Island’s biggest icons. The Haenyeo make a living collecting seafood from the ocean floor including octopi, abalone, sea urchins, and seaweed. What makes these divers unique is their ability to dive up to 98ft deep and hold their breath for over 3 minutes without special oxygen equipment. Historically, divers existed in Jeju-do since 434 AD, however it wasn’t until the 18th century that the practice became almost entirely female-dominated. While it’s unclear specifically why this shift took place, many believe it’s either because a large portion of Jeju’s male population died at war and in deep-sea fishing accidents or because women’s bodies, which naturally store more fat, are better adapted for handling cold water. Either way, by the 18th century the Haenyeo became the prime drivers of Jeju’s economy and many families relied on them for income. This subsequently triggered a semi-matriarchal society to form on the island, very different from the rest of Korea at that time.
Haenyeo woman at Seongsan Ilchulbong, Jeju-do
Today, the number of Haenyeo working on Jeju Island is diminishing, with 98% of Haenyeo being over the age of 50. While the Haenyeo are no longer leading the island’s economy, they continue to be recognized as iconic figures of Jeju-do and in 2016, were added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. These days, there are several places around Jeju you can visit to watch Haenyeo work, with the most well-known place being Seongsan Ilchulbong.
Haenyeo cleaning and cutting seafood they caught
To see the Haenyeo, walk down the left path before the entrance gate and down a series of stairs leading to the waterside. The show times are 1:30pm and 3:00pm, held daily.
Disclaimer: the performance does not guarantee the Haenyeo to actually be diving. I found this out only after arriving. I visited at 1:30pm, but by that time the Haenyeo had already finished catching all that they needed for the day. So the women instead sung a few songs.
After the performance, you can try out the divers’ daily catches at the Haenyeo restaurant located along the shore.
If you want to learn more about Haenyeo, you can visit the Jeju Haenyeo Museum.
Hiking Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak
I recommend giving yourself about 1 hour to complete the hike to and from Ilchulbong Peak. While the trail itself is rather short and can technically be done in 20 minutes, most people need to take short breaks along the way. This is because the hike up is rather steep, being 182m above sea level, and consists entirely of stairs. Fear not, though! There’s a couple of benches along the trail for resting. Just make sure to bring lots of water!
The trail is very beautiful, with lush greenery and rock formations lining its steps. One of the fascinating things about the Seongsan Ilchulbong’s crater is that it houses its very own ecosystem, containing 200 types of vegetation including six rare species of plants! As you hike up, make to to get a good view of the town below you.
At the top there’s a large viewing platform to sit on and look out over the crater. As mentioned before, Seongsan Ilchulbong is known for its fantastic view. The day I went, it was rather foggy so the view was somewhat obstructed, but I still enjoyed it.
Once you’re ready to leave, there is a separate trail that leads back down to the entrance.
Food
After the hike, I popped into the park’s souvenir store before exploring the surrounding area of Goseong-ri. The area was very quaint with numerous restaurants and cafes lining its streets.
Wandering around, I ended up visiting Jeju Kim Manbok, a small take-out chain in Jeju that has become famous on social media. I ordered the Manbok Kimbap (만복이네김밥) for 7,500 won and the seasoned octopus (오징어 무침), for 5,000 won. The Manbok Kimbap is a simple kimbap made with seasoned rice sandwiching a thick layer of sweetened egg, wrapped in seaweed and sprinkled with sesame seeds. In my opinion the meal was okay, but not worth any special praise. Jeju Kim Manbok is known for their abalone kimbap (통전복주먹밥), so if you go, perhaps try that instead, or try out one of the few other restaurants in the area.
Because I had some extra time before my bus arrived and it started to rain, I popped into the Starbucks next to Seongsan Ilchulbong’s entrance to try one of their Jeju-exclusive drinks. I ordered the Jeju Kiwi Ocean Green Tea. Unfortunately, the drink was entirely too sweet for my personal taste, but it was sure pretty to look at!
Returning
To return, you can take any of the same numbered buses as before, just going towards Jeju City. I took Bus 211.
Bus 211 and 212 return times from Seongsan Ilchulbong to Jeju City Bus Terminal. Note: the stop listed on the far left (성산포항) is the stop right before the Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance stop.
Conclusion
In all, Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak is a wonderful place to visit and, in my opinion, is a must for first time visitors to Jeju Island. While the weather can be unpredictable, leading to rainy or overcast days such as when I visited, the scenery is gorgeous regardless and the experience is one I’d be happy to repeat when I return to Jeju-do.
Regarding the Haenyeo, I would highly urge you to check them out if given the chance—even if not necessarily at this location. As mentioned above, Haenyeo are an important part of Jeju’s history and culture which, while alive today, are slowly fading away. In the future, the Haenyeo may only be remembered through museums and textbooks, but right now they are living breathing people. I feel lucky to have met them in person and it is my hope that others can too.
Seaongsan Ilchulbong Peak: 제주 서귀포시 성산읍 성산리 1
78 Seongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
Hours: March-September: 7:00-20:00; October-February: 7:30-19:00; closed first Monday every month
Jeju Kim Manbok: 제주 서귀포시 성산읍 성산등용로17번길 55 리치유클래시아 상사 1층 108호
392 Seongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
Hours: Wed-Mon: 7:30-18:00; Tuesday: 8:30-18:00.