A Walk Through Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market

*Warning: This post contains graphic content *

I scan the fish tank in front of me, one filled with an assortment of lively white cod fish.

“How about that one?” I ask, pointing to a smaller fish.

The vendor scooped it out and transferred it to a separate bucket to be weighed. The price was estimated, haggled over, and then settled. Swiftly, the owner dumped the fish out onto the ground. It began floundering. He grabbed a wooden stick.

Thud thud.

It stopped.

“Here you go,” he says with a smile, handing the newly bagged corpse over to me. “Enjoy!”

“Um…Thank you…” I say, taking the baggie in both hands and questioning what I got myself into.

Noryangin Fish Market is one of South Korea’s most popular wholesale seafood markets, located in Southern Seoul just below the Han River. The main appeal of Noryangjin Market is that the fish are alive when sold and prepped—Ahem, killed—only after purchase. The fish can then be prepared (cooked) immediately after by one of the market’s many affiliated restaurants. Talk about fresh!

Coming from the desert state of Arizona, I was a fan of seafood but had little experience in what fresh seafood—I mean, really fresh—wholly entailed. Wanting to learn more, I decided to check out the market for myself.

Noryangjin Fish Market is intimidating. Standing eight stories tall, the building looms over visitors with dark cascading shadows. Entering on the first floor, I was suddenly met with jarring white lights and the vibrant sounds of hustling vendors haggling with customers. The smell of salt water is potent yet lacks the usual pungency of dead fish.

Water drenches the floors, sloshing out from the stacked fish tanks. This is not a place to wear your, ‘Sunday Best.’ To my right, one rubber-toed vendor is balancing on the edges of an elevated fish tank, holding a fish net in one hand and a live crab in the other.

To my left I witness a scene straight out of Finding Nemo—three black bags crawling out of a bucket and down the tableside. The shopkeeper sighs in frustration as she runs around the table to retrieve the bags.

The first floor is dedicated to live fish auctions and retail. The selection of seafood varies greatly, from King Crabs and shrimp the size of one’s hand...

King Crab

Tiger Prawn

to sea snails and gaebul, a species of marine spoon worm known in Korea for its rather phallic shape.

gaebul

(marine spoon worm)

As mentioned previously, most of the fish are kept alive until purchase. Then, they are killed in front of the customers. At every turn fish are getting stabbed and sliced; crustaceans are getting crushed. The remains are everywhere. It is not for the faint of heart. If picking a live fish is too daunting, pre-prepared sashimi plates are also available with selections including tuna, salmon, and stingray.

Vendors are frequently preparing these cuts with a graceful demeanor, showcasing an impressive mastery over the craft. Still, it’s impossible to walk through without witnessing the harsh reality of where seafood comes from. 

Once your entrée is acquired, the next step is to take the escalator to the second floor. This is where The Salted Seafood Marketplace, Live Octopus Corridor, and all the restaurants are located.

The Salted Seafood Marketplace sells fermented and salted seafoods such as oysters and shrimp, ingredients commonly used in making kimchi, pork wraps, or as a side dish. Everything here can be sampled with toothpicks but be warned—have a water bottle at the ready when you are done. After sampling just three items, my mouth felt like I had downed a container of sea salt.

Assortment of salted seafood banchan

Next, there is the Live Octopus Corridor. Here, adventurous eaters can try sannakji, or live octopus. Octopus is chopped up into bite sized pieces and is intended to be eaten right away, while it’s still squirming around. Make sure to chew quickly or else the suction cups will stick to your mouth!

mini octopus

Finally, it is time to eat. There are many restaurants to choose from, but they basically all do the same thing and are equally priced. Some restaurants partner with the vendors on the first floor, so if you have trouble choosing just ask the vendor you buy from and they will direct you. The restaurants can prepare the fish in a multitude of ways. Fish can be cut into sashimi and served with lettuce, fermented bean paste, and onion to make wraps with. Shrimp is commonly salted and grilled while crab is usually boiled.

Clockwise left to right: Kimchi, lettuec wraps,

maeuntang (spicy fish stew)

, salted and grilled shrimp

During my visit, I had grilled shrimp along with an order of maeuntang, spicy fish stew, a staple of Noryangjin. I can honestly say that the grilled shrimp was the best shrimp I had ever had in my life. Meaty, tender, salty goodness! The maeuntang was alright but nothing mind-blowing, similar to a typical kimchi seafood stew one could find at any other Korean restaurant. The spices and vegetables did bring a welcoming heat and flavor to my rather bland white fish, though. If buying whole fish, I recommend getting sashimi and then using the fish’s remains for the stew. I did not know this at the time and had the entire fish used in the the maeuntang, only later realizing there was a proper methodology to the madness. Next time!

maeuntang

(spicy fish stew)

Many like to have soju with their meal as well. Just watch out for the drunk elderly ajusshis and ajummas. If not careful, you may end up as an unexpected guest at their table, being spoon fed raw octopus and soju shots until the waitress kicks them out. (Not that I know this from personal experience or anything…)

If dining in, a separate restaurant fee is required, though it is nothing too outlandish. In total, I ended up spending about 40,000 won, or $32.00 USD, during my visit to the market.

In conclusion, Noryangjin Market is a rollercoaster of an experience. Some moments are thrilling and awe-inspiring while others are anxiety-ridden and shocking. Going in, I felt highly intimidated, but I am glad I went. The market showcases certain aspects of Korean culture in a different light. There's a determination to work hard along with an acceptance of life's harsh realities— understanding pain leads to a better appreciation for life. I've learned that while one can live blissfully unaware of certain things, such as where their seafood comes from, there is a freedom in throwing oneself into the dauting unknown and Noryagjin Fish Market is the perfect environment to do just that.

Address: 674 Nodeul-ro, Noryangjin-dong, Dongjak-gu, 서울특별시 South Korea

Hours: Open 24 hours

Phone: +82 2-2254-8000